Let's Go, Jane!

Last week I hopped on a plane by myself and flew to San Juan, Puerto Rico. It was my first time taking a trip like this alone. Granted, Puerto Rico is part of the United States, but it feels like going to another country. For one thing, it’s a tropical island. For another, the primary language spoken there is Spanish, although almost everyone I encountered was bilingual.

The first day was quite disorienting. I wanted to take public transportation from the airport to my AirBnb. I wandered around the airport with all my luggage for half an hour before figuring out that the bus stop was DIRECTLY ABOVE ME. That’s why I couldn’t find it, it was one level up at Departures. I waited for half an hour at the bus stop, and when no bus came, I relented and called for an Uber. Fifteen minutes later, I was at the apartment I would call home for the next five days. I unpacked and settled in.

Hungry, I ventured out on foot to an outdoor market recommended by my host, inhaling a delicious arepa (a corn flatbread stuffed with roasted pork) along the way. I sat in the public square, drinking my passion fruit mojito and eating octopus salad, and people watched until it was time to Uber back to the apartment. It was odd being there alone. I felt isolated and uncomfortable.

I’d been sick all week, and I woke up Saturday morning still feeling super congested. Unfortunately, this meant that I had to cancel the scuba certification I had scheduled for Monday and Tuesday. I will definitely find another time to get certified, I was really looking forward to it. 

Undeterred, I set out on foot to the meeting location for the free walking tour I’d booked of Old San Juan. The downside of not having a travel companion is that it was up to me to navigate to the right place. Unfortunately, I have a history of showing up at a different place with a similar name. A quick Uber ride and I managed to catch up with the tour group as they were leaving the first stop. The buildings of Old San Juan are colorful and beautiful, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was taking the same photograph over and over. 

After the walking tour, I decided to walk the 4.5 miles back to the apartment. Halfway there, I ran out of steam and rented one of those e-scooters you find parked all over the sidewalks. I rode for a death-defying 20 minutes and then walked the last half hour. Saturday was my highest step count day, coming in at 19,000 steps.

On Sunday I joined a group tour to El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. We hiked about a mile to a swimming hole packed with families and college students on spring break. Our guide, a young woman named Sofi, who was so agile she somehow managed to be at both the front and the back of our group of 17 hikers, offered to take us about 10-minutes farther to a natural water slide, cliff jump, and rope swing. I decided to go for it. How often am I in a rainforest? I slid, jumped, and swung, despite my terror. It was exhilarating and confidence-boosting.

On Monday I walked for miles on the beach, wandered through a neighborhood full of colorful street murals, and experienced mofongo with ropa vieja (green plantains and stewed beef). I finished the night at a local bar recommended by my host, listening to the drums of live bomba and plena music. Tuesday I walked five miles and ate the most delicious fish tacos I’ve ever had, with this spicy avocado hot sauce I could drink straight from the bottle. I had plans to go out salsa dancing that night but I was too tired.

I finally got to take the bus on Wednesday, as my departure flight wasn’t until 7 pm. I rode to Old San Juan, checked my bag at a luggage storage place, and explored the two 16th-century Spanish forts on foot. I tempered the heat with passion fruit and pineapple sorbet, as I watched the street cats nap in the shade and street chickens mix with the pigeons.

One uneventful flight later, I arrived home late, feeling tired and relaxed and a little sunburned. I would definitely visit Puerto Rico again, this enchanting island. As for solo travel? I’m hooked. This was an empowering experience, and provided the reassurance I needed to know that I can do it for a much longer stretch come fall.